Having tried this route at the Trebenna Sector of Geyikbayırı climbing area ever since it was established, and getting to climb it this year.. A dream coming true..
I had tried this route with a new generation climbing style when it was first put up but it was too difficult with the vision and obscurity of the time. As Felix did the first ascent and made the route climbable, and also found a solution with incredible style for the first moves, he turned the impossible into doable.
With a continuously overhanging slope after the roof at the beginning Devers Royale needs all you have all through as a total stamina route and is graded 8c+ with the new grading system. But I grew up with the old one and always believed it was a 8c. Considering other ascents of the route, opinions from other climbers who have tried, and since the difficulty eases up a bit with the resting spots on the line, I believe 8c is ideal, maybe it could even be a little softer..
Last year between April and May I made some good attempts but couldn’t finalize it because of hot or rainy weather, weariness after a season of climbing etc.. Normally I spend every November and New Years in Geyikbayiri but this year I was in Adana, so I got to do my first trip on January 8 2012.. My goal: Devers Royale of course..
The first try went well.. Another attempt in the dark the same day is better than last year.. Apparently I remember all the moves.. Good.. I spend the next day in another sector with a beautiful day of climbing with friends as a day of active resting..
January 10: It rains
January 11: All 3 goes I had were pretty good.. On the first one an un-warmed up body and fingers end up with a good fall.. The second one is better but this time I can’t do the jump well and find myself hanging on the rope.. Third attempt, end of the day but all my best attempts are those at the end of the day.. Once again I fall as I lose feeling at my fingertips at the last section of the route.. Ahh not here.. Should make better use of resting and properly warm up fingers..
Warmed up well on other routes and made a warm up attempt on the route to complete preparation.. Settle the resting phase well and reassure myself mentally..
I am ready..
And the usual fantastic wind accompanies me, sweeps my face and blows through my hair.. I feel I will climb it.. With that great feeling, I begin to rise.. Fluent and flawless.. Like it should be.. Making good use of the resting spots and warming up my fingers well I finalize the route and a dream with a clip into the anchor.. My last task would be a long jump off the anchor..
Devers Royale 8c
January 12 2012
I reward my body I had been taming through hunger for days with a splendid breakfast and coffee..
After a few rest days Adana Team comes to Geyikbayırı and the climbing starts again..
After breakfasts in sunshiny beautiful weather, aside from video and photo shoots at Devers Royale, I flashed Qantum Gigantum, did the Luc Skywalker route with its rebolting and extension..
Qantum Gigantum 8a Flash
Luc Skywalker 8b
Video coming soon..
Photos from Devers Royale:
Many thanks to Jakob Schroedel for the photos.